We first visited Mananthavady by accident. Our plan was to drive to Mysore and spend a weekend there. We started late in the evening one Friday and took the road to Mysore bypassing Calicut. Since it was dark we missed out a few turns and were lost. Finally we made our way to Mananthavady. We stopped there for dinner and we were told that the road to Mysore passes through the Bandipore National park and plying of vehicles on that road was banned from 9 PM to 6 Am by the order of High court of Karnataka. Therefore we were forced to stay there in Mananthavady. We chose a nice hotel Called Hotel Brahmagiri in the heart of the town.

The next day we woke up to a glorious sunlight and since we were yet to explore this part of Wayanad we ditched the Mysore plan and rather hatched a plan to explore Mananthavady and its surrounding areas.

Amongst the most famous of places around Mananthavady is Thirunelly. Visiting Thirunelly is an experience in itself and nothing really prepares you for this visit.

Believed to be created by Brahma, and visited in different ages by Parasurama, Rama and Krishna, this place is famous for its 3000 year temple. The temple is located in a valley surround by four different mountains in all directions. Towards north the Bhramagiri range and to the east lie the Udayagiri ranges. A mountain shaped like the body of a tiger is located towards the eastern side of the temple and on its west stands the jet black mountain Karimala.      

Thirunelly is a pilgrimage without the usual trapping of a pilgrim town. You will not find the shops selling religious articles on the way to the temple, nor are there any touts here. Most people come here in the afternoon, do puja in the night, bathe in the papanashini (destroyer of sins) at daybreak and leave by afternoon.

The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu with a legend being that his head is located at Trissilery Temple around 8 km from Mananthavady. This temple is very ancient and is made out of unpolished stone. There are 30 granite columns towards the east and there is an ancient aqueduct which is said to be commissioned by a Brahmin woman to bring water from Papanashini. Like all temples in Kerala, men need to be bare their chest to enter this temple. People come here to do pind daan (Offering to ancestors), marriages, putra kameshiti (praying for sons) and many other pujas.

Seeveli the traditional three lap circumambulation of the presiding deity takes place thrice a day and is a treat to watch. The last Seeveli is at 8 PM and the temple shuts after this.

On the southern side of the temple is the tank called as Panchateertham. As the name suggests this was apparently the confluence of five holy rivers but there in nothing left of it now. The tank is almost dry and covered by undergrowth. There is an interesting slab of stone at the centre, which can be reached by a short stone bridge. There is an impression of human foot on the stone believed to be of Vishnu and hence called Vishnupadam. 

Papanashini is a pool located in the forests around the temple. A concrete pathway through the forest takes you to the pool. The water is crystal clear and very cold. A dip early in the morning is sure to rejuvenate each cell of your body. There is a 3 dip limit but most people over stay their limit and have to politely reminded to move. Legend links this place to the churning of the celestial ocean. While Brahma was consecrating the Idol of Vishnu here, Garuda was asked to carry the Amrit or nectar to this place. On his way a few drops of the nectar fell at Prayag, Haridwar, Ujjain and Nasik, sanctifying them as venues of future Kumbh Melas. When Garuda reached Thirunelly he circled this place thrice when a few drops fell in this pond thus endowing it with purifying powers.